Travel,  utah

Salt Lake City will pleasantly surprise you!

This is what most people think of when someone mentions Salt Lake City:

Josh Gad, center left, and Andrew Rannells in the musical “The Book of Mormon”  at the Eugene O’Neill Theater. Photo: Sara Kurlwich, New York Times

While the Mormon church definitely has a large presence, it does not completely define the city anymore. Salt Lake City has grown up nicely since hosting the winter games in 2002, a pale blue dot among a sea of red, a pleasant counterculture to the once-dominant religious culture. Whether you’re in SLC for work and just have evenings free or are here for a weekend, there are plenty of things to keep you busy.

Hiking and Running

I recommend the AllTrails hiking app for specific details on length and difficulty, as well as directions to the trailhead.

  • Bonneville Shoreline Trail– This trail system follows the eastern shore of the ancient Lake Bonneville. Tons of options for running and hiking. I like the Avenues Twin Peaks hike. Perfect for after work.
  • Millcreek Canyon– Hiking, biking, running, and dogs off leash are all options in this canyon. Bike days are even days, off-leash days are odd days. Desolation trail to the Salt Lake Overlook is one of my favorites.
  • Liberty Park– Large park just south of the central downtown area, which is great for running/walking or just hanging out. The paved path around the park is 1.45 miles. Tracy Aviary is also located there.
  • Red Butte Gardens– The largest botanical garden in the intermountain west, walking trails, and an awesome outdoor concert series in the summer.
  • Rotary Glen Dog Park- Traveling with your pup? They’ll love this park. A few agility obstacles, a large field to chase ball, and a stream. What more could a dog want??

Beer

Yes, you can get a drink in Salt Lake! Lots of them! Sure, it isn’t San Diego or Seattle, but there are a lot of breweries making a lot of really great beer. Beer 5% ABV or less is sold in stores and on draft. Anything stronger than that, you have to get directly from the bar/brewery or state liquor store in cans or bottles. You can also expect to have  your ID scanned when walking into any bar. I know, it doesn’t make sense to me either, but thems the rules, so don’t get too put out about it. One day adulthood will be legal in Utah. Something something gerrymandering something.  Below are somefavorites. Check out the Utah Ale Trail website for a complete list of Utah breweries and locations. 

  • TF Brewing– focusing on the German style of brewing, their beers are clean and crisp and perfect for sipping on their back patio. There is usually a food truck here, or you can get barbecue to go next door at Kaisers BBQ. Try the American Avenue Pale or the Kellerbier. Sehr gut! Instagram: @tfbrewing
  • Fisher Brewing– After a 50 years hiatus, Fisher was revived by the great-great-grandson of Albert Fisher, who founded the brewery in 1884. This place is always hopping and you will see their merch all over town. They’ve got a handful of staple beers and several rotating handles of more experimental batches. I like the Fisher Beer and the Citra Bomb Tom. There is usually a food truck outside from lunchtime until late evening. I maaaaay spend some Friday afternoons working here. Emails and expense reports go much better with a beer. Check out their Instagram for who’s slinging eats. @fisherbrewing
  • Level Crossing– These guys are located on the southern end of Salt Lake, in an area that also has three other breweries (Shades, Salt Fire, and Grid City) and a distillery in reasonable walking/biking/scooter distance. They’ve got wood-fired pizzas, charcuterie, and sandwiches to go with your You-Tah Uncommon or In The Pines hazy pale ale.
  • Shades– They have something for just about everyone, from their Kveik sours, to IPAs, to their low-cal FIT beer and Livli Seltzer brands. I like the FIT brut style session IPA and anything from the Kveik sour line. No food offered here, but takeout is allowed to be brought in. Pat’s BBQ is just around the corner and are famous for their burnt ends, though they tend to sell out quickly.
  • Proper BrewingAvenues Proper started as a small brewery and restaurant in the Avenues neighborhood directly north of downtown. They have expanded to a separate brewing facility and burger joint, Proper Burger, and a tap house called Craft By Proper in the heart of Sugarhouse. Craft By Proper prides itself on selling only Utah beers. Some of my favorite Proper beers include the Lei Effect passion fruit gose and the Proper Beer, an English golden ale.
  • Mountain West Cider– Beer not your thing? Mountain West has you covered and they have several styles from which to choose. I like the dry, crisp Ruby or the subtly-hopped Cottonwood. They have a very small bar inside and an awesome summer patio called The Garten. They also have a handful of local beers and spirits to offer. 

Cocktails

A growing industry both in Utah and nationwide is craft spirits. The most well-known Utah distillery, High West, was purchased by Constellation Brands several years ago, which is why you see it throughout the country. What’s your vice? Whiskey? Rum? Gin? Vodka? Tequila (yes, real tequila made from blue agave in Mexico)? We have it all. A gin and tonic is my go-to and I’m a fan of the Holystone Navy Strength gin. The Utah Distillery Trail details all of the distilleries currently operating in Utah. A few are in Salt Lake, but many are outside the city. Look for the local spirits in any fine cocktail establishment. Speaking of… ready for a nightcap? Check these places out.

  • Seabird– Located at the Gateway mall, which is transitioning into an entertainment district, this place offers a good beer selection and delicious craft cocktails. The Bees Knees is, in fact, the bee’s knees. They make a delicious sazerac, my favorite New Orleans cocktail.
  • Alibi– This cocktail joint on Main Street downtown is small and hip. They have a list of house-created libations or they can make whatever you fancy. Beer and wine also available.
  • Bar X– This place was a crappy beer bar when I was in college, but now it’s one of the “it” spots in town. It’s dark and intimate, perfect for a date. Their seasonal cocktail menu always has tasty options, or you can go with one of the classics, like a Pimm’s Cup or a gimlet. If you’re a beer person, it’s sister establishment, Beer Bar, is right next door.
  • Undercurrent– This is a great little spot for cocktails and appetizers. I am a fan of the ceviche and I’ll never turn down oysters on the half shell.
  • The Ruin– Located in the Sugarhouse neighborhood, south of downtown. Great for an after dinner cocktail. Or three. They have a seasonal cocktail menu and will likely have whatever suits your mood. Great whiskey selection!

Food

Utah has a growing food scene, becoming more diverse every day. You’ll mostly find “New American” fare here, but there are ethnic gems here and there. I’m not going to talk about the obvious places like Red Iguana, Copper Onion, or Takashi. All are good, but you’ll wait forever to get a table and there are plenty of other options that will satisfy.

  • Oquirrh– Pronounced “OH-kurh,” like the mountain range to the west of the city. They try to source locally as much as they can and never disappoint with their seasonal menu. The place is pretty small, so reservations are recommended.
  • HSL– Another New American establishment that is always good. It’s a shared plates style place, with a few large plate items on the menu. General Tso’s cauliflower is delicious! Great wine and cocktail program, too.
  • Hamachi– This is my current go-to sushi joint. They offer more than just sushi- they’ve got poke, ramen, and other Japanese-inspired dishes. My favorite sushi rolls are the Mr. Miyagi and the Sunset. Wash it down with your favorite sake. Kanpai!
  • Laziz Kitchen– Lebanese food at its best! I love everything on their menu and don’t eat there nearly enough. Get the labne dip and the Mediterranean platter with lamb meatballs and your belly will thank you. Grab a post-dinner drink at Water Witch, located around the corner.
  • Settebello– I know, it’s a bit of a chain, but this place has the best Neapolitan-style pizza in town. Bonus- it’s located next door to a gelato place. So there’s that.

Arts and Culture

  • Natural History Museum– Who doesn’t like dinosaurs?! This beautiful museum is laid out in a timeline and showcases many of the dinosaurs found in Utah. There is also a Native American exhibit, gemstones, anthropological specimens, and an active seismograph.
  • Salt Lake Public Library– Take a stroll through the shops, grab some coffee, and admire the award-winning architecture of this public library. Such a gem to have in the city.
  • Gallivan Center– home to festivals, concerts, and an ice rink and located in the heart of downtown. Check the calendar to see what’s happening during your visit.
  • Eccles Theater– A broadway-style theater with national acts coming through nearly every night. Broadway musicals, singers, speakers, and dancers all perform here. See who is in town. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to catch Book of Mormon here!

The Obvious

It’s worth a stroll around Temple Square. The grounds are beautiful and you may catch an organ recital or the world-renowned Mormon Tabernacle Choir (or whatever they’re calling themselves now) rehearsing if you’re there on the right day of the week. There are massive structural renovations going on right now, so many things may be in disarray.

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